Bizerta

“Bizerte is still surrounded by its old mortar and stone walls, perforated by four ancient gateways: Bab-al-Tunis to the east, Bab-al-Mateur to the south, Bab-al-Bejà to the west and Bab-al-Andless to the north.

   

The day will soon come when it will all be demolished, especially the eastern part to join the old and new cities.

The western part will last longer without doubt. Three hexagonal towers form bastions with some of their corners in ruins to defend Bab-al-Bejà. The latter gateway is crowned by battlements like the others.

The modern barracks are found near here. Above, on the top of the gently-sloped hill is Dar Ali Scheich, a large white house with a pretty view over the city. Rich Moors have made this hill their favourite place.

From the ramp of one of the towers you can see the port’s new docks and, in the distance, Ras Zebib, the colour of fire, as well as the talus planted with eucalyptus trees facing the city. All of Bizerte, with its labyrinthine, narrow little streets […] unfolds before our eyes.”

Archduke Ludwig Salvator of Austria, Bizerte, J. Rothschild, Paris, 1900 (Prague, 1897)