Golfo de Corinto :: Comparisson reports

“[…] we find the imposing Taxiarches Monastery with thin cypresses in front at the foot of mount Glokos. We see the facade first, which has some protruding balconies, in part windows with rounded arches and the start of a round tower. The main facade looks onto a plaza. The facade has three arch-shaped niches with saints above the main door and two covered balconies […]. 60 monks live in the monastery now along with 60 boys aged 9 and 10. The boys don’t eat in the refectory like the others but in groups of 3 to 5 under the supervision of a master. The monastery’s black Corinth grapevines, of which it has many, are located under the marina. To the right of the plaza, looking towards the monastery, is an inn for pilgrims. It features a large farm and stables. Behind is a cemetery with a small church in the middle and cypresses on the side. There is also a small garden in front of the plaza with a pergola for vines running from one side to the other. Weeping willows and a lot of roses also grow here.”

“On the flat, sandy point where the temple of Poseidon once stood and directly opposite its twin, Antirrio Point, is now the medieval Rio fortress, built or at least modified, in great measure, by the Venetians, though now quite abandoned […]. The western part of the lateral garrison is used as a prison, with a heavy wall in front and atop which the guards watch over the inmates. When I was there, I found it had 246 prisoners, 40 of whom were scheduled to be decapitated, the warden told me. The prisoners walk around in shackles. They can do so for two hours in the morning and another two in the afternoon. On the eastern side are prisoners who committed less severe crimes, and with fewer guards; there were 38 prisoners on that side. However, both groups of prisoners had a very wild look to them; they were very thin and pale for having spent such a long time in prison […].

Upon reaching the fortress point, my heart filled with joy upon completing my work. I sat very pensively at the extreme end of the fortress and looked towards the gulf which hid itself as in a dream and towards the sea, tempting me forward. At the same time, I thought about the victors at the Battle of Lepanto and about Byron, the modern fighter with his ideals of equality, and about the blue flag of war waving above my head. It seemed to me a testimony of freedom having been finally achieved, until, that is, the sound of the prisoners’ chains woke me from my dreams.”