Mallorca

"We shall first examine the so-called camisa, made of more or less fine linen called drap from the island or Catalonia. This blouse is then covered by a gipó, a tight bodice which extols the body’s slimness while also highlighting the natural shapes. It is always black and made of anascot, a light fabric made of cotton and silk or merino, thibet or orleans wool imported from Catalonia or abroad. Frequently, it is made of even thicker fabric or, in the case of well-to-do farmers’ daughters, black silk. The gripó is open up front and closed by means of brooches at the height of the clavicle.

Mallorcan women also tend to wear two skirts, enagos underneath or inside and faldetes on top. Winter enagos are multicolored and made on the island, while summer ones are printed fabrics imported from Catalonia or striped cloth with the following colors: violet, blue, green or red. Both winter and summer enagos consist at times of two different fabrics and colors; in this case, they’re called copinyats. The lower part of the winter version tends to be made of wool, while the upper layer is printed cloth or some other similarly light material. In summer, some farm girls only wear the copinyac above the blouse; others wear two superimposed copinyats, one serving as an enago and the other as a faldeta. The copinyat is very common throughout the island, though there are women especially amongst the wealthier class that never use them. Especially on Sundays or when visiting the city, rich or fairly well-to-do women farmers wear a mirinyac on top of the enagos and, on top of these, a cotton or white linen petticoat from Mallorca or Catalonia which they sometimes decorate with embroidery and call faldetes blanques. On top of these they wear the outer skirt made of llista or printed cloth except on holidays when it is made of cotton, blue, lilac or another color of silk, or dyed and striped muslin, all imported from Catalonia or abroad.

Women country folk in every town tend to wear an apron in a color other than the one used for their faldetes. There are two types of aprons: the davantal and the canyon. The former is generally wide, made of printed cloth or, amongst wealthier women especially on holidays, silk, a circumstance making this item merely decorative. By contrast, the canyon is used to clean. It is made of llista, wool or worsted and is mandatory for all farmhands, day laborers and maids."

Archduke Ludwig Salvator of Austria. Las Baleares por la palabra y el grabado. Majorca: General Part. Ed. Sa Nostra, Caja de Baleares. Palma de Mallorca. 1982.